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Loch
Leven Castle
Loch
Leven Castle is one of the best and least changed examples of
a fourteenth century keep remaining in Scotland. It stands on
an island in the loch of the same name, which is under the control
of an association of anglers. This association controls all the
boats which are allowed to ply upon the loch, and only from their
pier in the town of Kinross can the castle be visited. The lake
is the home of a peculiar species of trout, of which an average
of twenty-five thousand per year are taken by the anglers, who
are required to keep an exact record of their baskets. The loch
was lowered by drainage works in the beginning of the last century,
so that the water, which once lapped the castle walls, has left
a considerable space of greensward on all sides at present. The
island seems to have been connected in very ancient times with
the mainland by a causeway, which has now sunk well under the
surface. Still, in very dry seasons, it is possible for a man
to wade all the way to the island. The castle consists of a small
keep, only about thirty-eight feet by thirty, with walls seven
or eight feet thick, and five stories high. This has a vaulted
basement below the level of the court, with no access to the floor
above save by a hatch. The entrance is two floors above this,
leaving the first floor without external communication. The upper
floors are gone, and there is no access to the battlements, which
have corbelled bartizans at the three external corners. This keep
is provided with an extensive courtyard, which has a continuous
rampart walk. At the corner opposite the keep is a
·ruinous round tower, in which Queen Mary was confined.
This is of the sixteenth century, as were the other buildings
in the courtyard, of which only the foundations now remain.
The earliest castle in the island is said to have been built by
Congal, son of Dongart, King of the Picts. The first authentic
history of the castle is given in the following quotation: "In
the wars which harassed Scotland during the minority of David
II, the castle of Lochleven was held in the patriotic interest
by Allen de Vipont, against the troops of Edward III, who acted
in behalf of Edward Baliol. John de Strivilin blockaded it, and
erected a fortress in the churchyard of Kin-ross, which occupies
the point of a neighbouring promontory; and, at the lower end
of the lake, where the water of Leven issues out of it, it is
said that he raised a strong and lofty bulwark, by means of which
he hoped to lay the castle under water, and constrain Vipont to
surrender. The water continued to rise daily, and the besiegers
thought themselves certain of success, when, the English general
and most of his troops having left the camp to celebrate the festival
of St. Margaret at Dunfermline, the besieged, seizing the favourable
opportunity (June 19, 1385), after much labour and perseverance
broke through the barrier, when the water rushed out with such
impetuosity as to overwhelm the English encamped on that side."
The
most famous association of Lochleven Castle is undoubtedly the
imprisonment here of Mary, Queen of Scots. The Douglases had held
the castle and lands on the mainland since the time of Robert
III. Sir Robert Douglas, the laird of Mary's time, was a kinsman
of James, Earl of Morton, and stepfather to the queen's natural
brother, James, Earl of Moray, so that he was entirely in sympathy
with her captors. She was delivered into his keeping on June 16th,
1567, immediately after her surrender at Carberry Hill. On the
4th of July she was visited by Lord Ruthven, Lord Lindsay of the
Byres, and Sir Robert Melville, who wrung from her her signature
to an instrument purporting to resign the crown to her infant
son James. This scene has been graphically depicted by Scott,
in "The Abbot," as well as the other events of her stay
here, and is portrayed with great pathos. Mary was not content
with her unhappy lot, and succeeded in gaining the affections
of George Douglas, younger son of her jailer, and in persuading
him to help her to escape. The first attempt, on the 25th of April,
was unsuccessful, and George was expelled from the castle. He
remained in the neighbourhood and kept up correspondence with
her. With the assistance of William Douglas, a young relative
of the family, the second attempt, on May 2d, 1568, was entirely
successful. The young lad stole the keys of the castle from the
place where they were kept, while his lord was at supper. "He
let the queen and a waiting-woman out of the apartment where they
were secured, and out of the door itself, embarked with them in
a small skiff, and rowed them to the shore. To prevent instant
pursuit, he, for precaution's sake, locked the iron grated door
of the tower, and threw the keys into the lake. They found George
Douglas and the queen's servant, Beaton, waiting for them, and
Lord Seton and James Hamilton of Orbieston in attendance, at the
head of a party of faithful followers, with whom they fled to
Niddrie Castle, and from thence to Hamilton." The freedom
of the unfortunate queen was of short duration, however, ending
with her defeat at Langside. The keys of the castle were recovered
when the loch was lowered, and are now in the Armoury at Abbotsford.
The castle later served as a prison for the Earl of Northumberland
after his rebellion in England and capture in Scotland. He was
confined here from 1569 to 1572, and then delivered to Elizabeth,
by whose orders he was executed.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me at;
sandystevenson@thefreesite.com
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