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Tour
the Southern Inner Hebrides of Scotland
This
Hebridean group includes Islay, Jura, Colonsay, Oronsay and assorted
rocky outcrops. The turbulent seas are popular with experienced
sailors, while walkers, swimmers and cyclists are drawn to the
hills, beaches and countryside. Golden eagles, grey seals and
goats are among the abundant wildlife, and subtropical plants
grow in the mild climate.
Ardlussa Cemetery
Mary
McCrain, said to have lived to 128, buried here. Male ancestor
reputed to have reached 180.
Beinn
Bheigeir
Island's
highest point at 1612ft. From Ardtalla at its foot, path leads
to McArthur's Head light-house on Sound of Islay.
Beinn
nan Gudairean
Old
road at rear of hotel leads to summit of hill and scattered remains
of fort. Views of Staffa, Lunge, Mull and peaks of Ben Nevis,
Ben Mor and Ben Lomond.
Bowmore
Council
offices, hospital, and fire station located in this harbour village
of stone-built houses and modern dwellings. Distillery, established
1779, has excellent reception area. Kilarrow Church built in 1767
is circular in shape.
Bridgend
Roads
to north, south and west of island meet here at head of sandy
sea loch. Viaduct nearby carries private road to Islay House.
Hill-top memorial to John F. Campbell, collector of West Highland
folk-lore. Trout fishing in five lochs, sea angling from launches,
wild-fowling and hind stalking.
Colonsay
Subtropical
plants and 150 species of birds flourish in naturalist's paradise.
Man first visited island in 7000 BC, and has occupied it since
the Middle Stone Age. Walking, fishing, cycling and golf.
Corran
Sands
Silver
and while sands stretch for 3 1/2 miles beside Jura's only road,
which runs for 24 miles from Feolin Ferry to Ardlussa.
Corryvreckan
Whirlpool
Ten-knot
tide race in channel between north lure and Scarba becomes roaring
maelstrom of white water. Has claimed many vessels and lives.
Best to view an hour or so after low tide.
Dun
Ghallain
Secret
cave hiding place of MacFie clan and remains of fort protected
by cliffs on two sides.
Dunyvaig
Castle
Ruined
fortress dating back to 14th century once belonged to MacDonalds,
Lords of the Isles.
Ellister
Bird Sanctuary
Thirty
species of ducks, swans and geese in scenic environment near Port
Charlotte.
Finlaggan
Castle
Ancient
seat and parliament of the Lord of the Isles, now ruins on island
in Loch Finlaggan. Visitor centre at Finlaggan farm.
Grannie's
Rock
Rock
above Machir Bay sands has profile like old woman gazing out to
sea. Ruins of Dun Chroisprig, Iron Age broch, nearby.
Islay
Community
of 4000 yields £7000 a head annually to Exchequer, largely thanks
to whisky industry. Malt dried over local peat, giving unique
flavour. Wilder west coast gives way to farms and boggy lowlands.
Jura
Red
deer outnumber 250 inhabitants by 20 to one. Standing stones,
Iron Age forts and cave-strewn cliffs. Inland, woods give way
to moorland heath and scree. One main road.
Jura
House Walled Garden
Subtropical
shrubs and flowers grow abundantly. Views from cliff top and woodland
walks.
Kilchattan
Remains
of medieval church, thought to be dedicated to St Calan, within
walled burial ground. Baptist chapel built 1879 near remains of
chapel to St Mary.
Kilchiaran
Ruins
of St Ciaran's Chapel lie by track leading to bay. Oyster-catchers
and curlews to be seen.
Kildalton
Ruined
church with 8th-century carved Celtic cross, reached by unclassified
road through woods.
Kilnaughton
Bay
Unspoiled
golden sands 1 mile west of Port Ellen.
Kiloran
Bay
Beach
backed by sand dunes in which rabbits thrive. Safe surfing in
Atlantic rollers. Natural rock pool deep enough for diving.
Kiloran
Gardens
Rhododendrons,
palms, mimosa, embothriums and eucalyptus flourish beside native
trees, bluebells and meconopsis.
Laggan
Bay
The
Big Strand, 5 miles of shell sand, stretches to Laggan at northern
end where river with salmon and trout flows into sea.
Laphroaig
Distillery
Established
in 1815. One of several distilleries on island which produce distinctively
flavoured malts. Traditional melting floor.
Loch
Gruinart
A
main wintering ground for Arctic barnacle geese. In 1598 MacLeans
of Duart lost clan battle against MacDonalds of Islay, who pursued
survivors to their refuge in Kilnave Chapel and burned it. Only
one MacLean escaped.
MacFie's
Stone
Clan
chief murdered herein 1623; many clan members visit site. Two
carved stones may indicate early Christian burial ground.
The
Mill
Mill,
19th century -- built by Lord Colonsay -- now converted to dwelling,
but water wheel still in place. Building behind mill said to have
been carpenter's shop.
The
Oa
Peninsula
of lochs and caves, once used by illicit whisky distillers end
smugglers. Topped by Beinn Mhor, 658ft. Monument at Mull of Oa
to 650 U.S. servicemen who died when two troopships, Tuscania
and Otranto, sank off the headland nearby in 1918.
Oronsay
St
Columba said to have landed here on way to Iona in 6th century.
Long-horned, black-fleeced wild goats may be descendants of animals
from Armada ships wrecked in 1588. Grey seals on rocky islets.
Oronsay
Priory
Ruins
of priory dating from 13th century contain 16th-century Celtic
cross and high altar. Stone slabs in graveyard have carved portraits
of warriors and saints,
Paps
Of Jura
Three
conical mountains, highest 2571ft, give views over 100 miles to
Isle of Man and Outer Hebrides. Climbers should take care, especially
from August to february when deer stalkers abound.
Port
Askaig
Ferry
port from mainland and connecting point for five-minute ferry
run to Jura. Post office, hotel, store and a lifeboat station.
Safe bathing.
Port
Charlotte
Principal
village of Rinns of Islay and prosperous farming area. Village
creamery takes island's entire milk output, producing cheese sold
on mainland and abroad. Museum of Islay Life has displays of local
history from prehistoric times. Street names are written in Gaelic.
Port
Ellen
Chief
township built in mid-19th century and car ferry port. Flanked
by peat moor used in malt whisky industry. Pier, post office,
double-tower lighthouse. Sailing, swimming and Machrie golf course
nearby.
Portnahaven
Tiny
village and neighbouring Port Wemyss stand in treeless area with
dramatic cliff scenery and views to Ireland. Village includes
post office., store, school and two churches. Offshore is Isle
of Orsay lighthouse.
Riasg
Buidhe
Remains
of 19th-century homes, earlier chapel and burial ground. Village
abandoned in 1918. Inhabitants rebooted at Glassard, near Scalasaig.
Saligo
Bay
Atlantic
rollers wash great sandy bay dominated by 400ft cliffs. Behind
is Loch Gorm, largest freshwater loch on island.
Scalasaig
Saithe
and mackerel can be caught from the pier -- arrival point for
Oban ferry. Seafarers use the 19th-century monument to Lord Colonsay
as a landmark when anchoring off pier or at Queen's Bay.
If you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me at;
sandystevenson@thefreesite.com
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To Around Scotland
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